Going Gray Gracefully For The Current Hair Coloring Client

First of all I don't always recommend you stop covering your gray hair for it can make you appear older, frumpy, dated and because of the ashy tone, it can make your skin appear dull and sallow. Some women embracing the gray hair, look amazing...such as Meryl Streep's character, with her silvery locks in Devil Wears Prada. I think this great silvery-gray color could look great on a lot of women if you coupled it with a flattering cut and fashionable clothing. If your the type that never considers fashion or hates to style your hair...then this look is not for you.

Since there is no hair color product on the market that will produce a true gray or white color, you simply have to let your gray grow out. For the client who has colored hair and gray roots, here are some options you have to help make the grow out process a lot more subtle and easier

1. Full highlights- Light blonde hair has very little contrast with gray hair. A full highlight each visit will be necessary until you remove all the previously colored hair....making you very blonde. A light ash toner will be necessary to counteract the yellow raw color that bleached hair achieves. The toner is light enough not to darken the hair but make the hair appear more gray or white than blonde. if your natural hair color is more salt and pepper...this can be achieved by low-lighting and highlighting the hair. A fine weave of low-lights the same color as the "pepper" in the hair and the remaining hair bleached. Then the now bleached blonde hair would be toned to give the appearance that it was gray or white. This is a process that takes a bit of time, money, and more then one visit may be required to receive the full desired results. Most find this option appealing because the end result does appear gray and makes them feel like they accomplished much of their goal even after the first visit.

2. Demi-permanent Color - The other option is much more budget friendly and probable the best option for extremely short haired clients who will cut the ends off soon anyway. Instead of getting rid of the previously colored hair and adding extra damage by bleaching and removing the color....we leave this hair alone and put the focus on the gray roots. When using a demi-permanent hair color which is deposit only hair color, it can only cover gray to about 50%. Meaning some your hair will take the color and some won't, allowing some gray to continue to shine through. When this type of hair color is deposited on gray course hair...it will also fade and leave you with little or no demarcation line. I guess you can say this works because it's not solid color like you have on the ends but not as bright white as your natural...so it is a great transition color. The demi-color would be applied to the roots only each visit and continued till the old, solid, previously colored hair has been cut off. After that phase you will be left with hair that has a salt and pepper look because of the 50% coverage of this demi-permanent product. Once your have reached this point you can also discontinue coloring your hair because the demi will fade anyway and the demarcation line will not be noticeable. This is a great option for those who have natural salt and pepper hair because your hair is like this already and you may be able to stop the process sooner.

I hope this helps and Good Luck!

Make Your Hair color Last

As The days become longer and more of us start to spend our time outdoor...It is extremely important to take care of the color you spent your money on. Here is what one of my favorite Hair Colorists, Rita Hazan has to say about making your beautiful hair color last.

For your hair color to last as long as possible, your hair needs to be healthy.  That is the only way your color will stay vibrant.  Conditioning treatments are the best way to keep your hair in good health.  You can get a professional treatment at the salon and then ask your colorist to recommend a treatment for your specific hair type and texture to use at home.  The lighter your hair is, the more frequently you should use your treatments each week.  For blondes, two times a week is more than enough. You can sleep with the treatment in, and then shampoo it out in the morning.  I don’t suggest using olive oil or homemade treatments.  I think it is best to take advantage of all of the technology out there and use the more advanced treatments that are available to us.  There are also great oils on the market that contain ingredients tailored to treat specific hair color issues and problems.  If you feel like your color is looking dull, you can also buy a  shine spray or serum.  These types of products will make your hair look shiny and help the color to appear more bright and alive.
I also believe that the shampoo and conditioner you use can make or break your color.  Some products work better than others on colored hair, so always use shampoo and conditioner made specifically for color treated hair.  If your hair seems to be fading, the first thing you should do is change your shampoo and conditioner.  A lot of times, the products you’ve been using end up being the problem.  Try different shampoos and conditioners until you find what works best for you.  Just don’t buy what is on “sale,” because you spend a lot of time and money on your color, so it is important to use the proper formulas to care for your hair. There is only so much your colorist can do to help you.  You must do your part and use the right products to make your color last.

by Rita Hazan

I also want to point out that if you plan on spending time outdoors in the pools or sun...I would recommend protecting those strands with Micro-Voile Protecteur from Kerastase. This treatment leaves a light, silky finish and acts as sunscreen for the sun-exposed hair.

Another great way to keep your hair color fresh and vibrant is to use color support shampoo and conditioners. These products contain hints of color pigments to counteract tonal shifts and fading that may occur with hair color over time. The Bumble and Bumble line was made to preserve the work of colorists. This low pH, extra-mild formula avoids stripping, neutralizes oxidation, smooths the cuticle & subtly enhances color.

Buzz Worthy Product Fave

Buzz Worthy Product Fave: Grooming Creme

One product that is a huge favorite of mine is Bumble and Bumble Grooming Creme. I love this product because it is easy to use and has countless ways you can use it,  giving a lot of bang for your buck. Use this product on damp hair for the beach waves, or give a perfect blow out a more natural, lived in style. If your wearing your hair straight, with your fingertips, piece out the ends of your hair to create more natural separation and give it more edge. This versatile product smooths hair, holds down flyaways, and great for giving  guys with that not so perfect, lived in texture. 

www.sheenarush.com
www.bumbleandbumble.com

Sunny With The Chance Of Highlights

This is the time of the year when it is all about renewal and revival. It is time to celebrate this beautiful warm sunny weather by treating yourself to a fresh new lighter and brighter hair color. Don't be afraid to try something new or dare I say different.

For all the blonds out there, the lighter always seems to be "better". If your not already changing your base color, I suggest you do. Even taking your natural hair color one shade lighter and warmer will brighten up your face giving you that instant sun kissed glow. The best part about changing your base color is that you need less highlights to give you that blond look. Less highlights means less bleach and healthier hair. Not only that but a base change will extend the life of your highlights, requiring fewer highlight visits saving you time and money. All this makes it worth the try.

For the darker headed and some timid ladies, going lighter does not have to be scary. Sometimes dark, cool and drab locks can make your skin look sallow and lifeless. How about trying a beautiful rich dark chocolate hair color with some yummy caramel balayage highlights. With a hue that is so soft and natural, keeping up with your new base color is all you need to do to keep this look alive. With that said, many do look amazing with black or extremely dark hair, but sometimes it can look plain and boring. Adding some natural sun-kissed balayage highlights a couple shades lighter then your natural hair color will add a whole lot of interest and really showcase a fabulous cut and brighten your face. With this look you will only need to retouch your highlights every 4 - 6 months!

The Den Salon in Chino Hills
Stylist and Hair Color Artist Sheena Rush

Prom 2010 Hair Ideas

Its that time of the year and prom is just around the corner. Every year gals prepare for the biggest dance of the school year, prom of 2010 is no exception. The most important rule to prom is you have to look amazing...preferably sexy. You found the perfect dress and your super hot date, and now the hair. Prom hair is the important finishing touch on your look...and that is where I come in. I hand picked some of my favorite prom hairstyles that are a must do this year. 

What I like about this half down look are those waves. The look is sweet and soft and can be incorporated in many different looks. The use of a braid in the fringe area will give this style a bohemian flair. Want to turn this style into something with a little more sass and edge....instead of loosely pulling back the top hair pieces from a center part....take hair further away from the face and let these sexy waves fall from a soft bouffant.

I am in love with the faux bob! The best part about this look is that you don't need to have short hair to create this sexy tousled look. Long hair is pinned underneath soft curls and waves to fake short hair. I must say that short hair is so much fun and even better when you don't have to commit to it. This look screams confidence and a sure way to make a statement.

The messy up-do is a super chic look that's a favorite of many celebrities. This is exactly the kind of stylish but unfussy look that screams the image of sexy, confidant trendsetter. Headbands and this imperfect hairstyle go hand in hand. The tousled and quite wild look can instantly be softened with a pretty accessory to really tie the hairstyle together. There are no set messy up-do rules. Messy up-dos can work with any type of hair, texture or color and with any length.

Neat yes. Boring no. This soft sweeping up-do is romantic, feminine, carefree and quite timeless. There are many variations of this popular up-do...such as leaving some side swept fringe or soft layers around the face. You can also make it more of a side up-do or instead of the tousled curls in the back, trying a messy bun. This look is clean and is great to wear if you want to showcase earrings or the neckline and simply looks amazing on everyone.

www.sheenarush.com 

Day 4 of the series: The Importance Of Styling Products

The 4th in the series: The Truth To Creating Salon Style At Home

Here is a quick overview of what you really need to achieve your favorite salon style at home.

First: Keep your hair healthy with professional shampoo and conditioner. healthy hair is not rebellious and more responsive to styling. I also shared with you that store brands have low quantity of quality ingredients and use fillers that add to dryness or buildup.

Second: Use a professional blow dryer that has the heat, power and technology to correctly dry hair, smooth frizz and control flyways without causing extra damage.

Third: The right brush will make your end results easy to achieve

and fourth and final tip in this series: The Importance Of Styling Products

What we love about styling product is that they instantly make your life so much easier when it comes to styling. For a fine haired gal a root booster will instantly add texture to her roots to create exciting volume and fullness. What I must share with you is with the changing seasons and the changing trends our hair tends to pay a price. As we fight with it to stay straight through all the humidity, static electricity, and bump up the volume, we seem to torture our strands with more heat tools. The importance of utilizing products is not only to assist us when creating lushes long lasting curls or silky smooth hair, but its to protect our hair from our curling irons, blow dryers and flat irons. Constant heat from our styling tools and even sun exposure and chlorine can cause major damage to the structure of our hair....making it dry, brittle, frizzy and possibly even breakage. Here is the dish on what you should be using. 

Products don't cause damage -- misuse does. Especially with heat styling tools! Apply mousse, sprays and creams to well hydrated and wet hair and remember that less is more! People often use to much product, which can cause hair to get weighed down. Moisturizing products are great for the health of hair and can help repair and prevent damage from heat styling. When using, gently comb the product through your hair to insure that each strand is coated. Also don't forget that when you are blow drying your hair...remove most of the moisture prior to styling. If you are using a flat iron or curling iron...remove all moisture or you will burn your hair!

My favorite styling products are from Bumble and Bumble and Kerastase. If your looking for soft touchable smooth hair, I would suggest using Kerastase. They have creams and serums for smoothing rough hair textures to create soft silky straight hair. Even there volumizing mouse and sprays are great for adding volume leaving a no product feel to the hair. Best of all, while all the products help protect your hair from heat damage, they have creams and sprays specifically for protecting and strengthening your hair against hot tools, pool water and sun exposure.

Volumizing products work! They provide the guts that are needed to build the style without weight, for volume and longevity.Bumble and Bumble styling aids are perfect for those looking to create texture in their hair. I believe that you get the best root boosting and volumizing results from using these products. While Kerastase results are soft...it can be to soft and sometimes you really want that extra help to give you the lift and lasting style that you need. You will get that and more with Bumble and Bumble. I like to start with the products Prep and Tonic Lotion because they protect and enhance the performance of styling products. Then if your going for volume, My favorite is Styling Creme. I Love Love Love it for its versatility and simple strength - slick back, add body, lift roots or define curl. You can use it on wet or dry hair and it holds like crazy without the stiffness! Going straight??? Use "Straight" and you will get the sleekest and straightest style easy.

Sure having training in creating the perfect blowout....or how to use a round brush may seem like it helps...but in reality without the professional tools and products...the styles you get at the salon are not possible. That is  the reason why you never see a stylist using a Conair blow dryer or drug store products on our clients. Those things will cause more harm than good. I hope that you all found this series helpful and feel free to give my any tip ideas. I love to know what it is you all want to know. Thanks again

www.sheenarush.com

The Truth To Achieving Salon Style At Home Series Day 3

The Truth To Achieving Salon Style At Home

Series Day 3: The Round Brush War

Half the problem of getting the right style and preventing damage is the type of hairbrush you use. As important as the brush itself, depending on the type of style your want to achieve, it is also important to know how wet your hair should be before you take a brush to it at all. Never ever use a brush on wet or damp hair.  Instead, use either your fingers or a high quality wide tooth comb and detangle your hair from ends to the roots. Most damage happens when the hair is wet. When hair is wet or damp, it's at it's very weakest point. Why?  When hair gets wet the water breaks down the natural hydrogen bonds in the hair.Yes, they reform again when the hair dries, but while wet, they are most fragile. So what are hydrogen bonds in the hair?  Within each hair the keratin chains are also linked by bonds of a different kind, called hydrogen bonds. When reshaping hair into different patterns the hair’s hydrogen bonds are broken apart when the hair is wet and then reforms when it is dried.  When the bonds break, the shape of the hair changes.  Therefore, when wet strands of hair are wound around rollers or any type, a new shape forms. To minimize damage, Allow hair to air dry whenever possible.  High levels of heat directed towards wet or damp strands may cause long term damage.  If you must dry your hair consider setting your dryer on a low heat and speed. Dry hair 50% for achieving straight hair and 85% for achieving body in hair.

The Round Brush 

Round brushes are extremely important  because their main purpose is to aid styling and blow-drying and using the right brush will bring you satisfying results. The different diameters are used to straighten wavy hair or to create volume in straight hair.  Choose a large diameter if you have longer hair and want straight strands. My brush of choice is a boar bristle brush such as the Marylin Brush. The mixed bristles are great for smoothing and straightening coarse or curly hair because it grips the hair and creates enough tension to get the hair really smooth without pulling. The boar bristle brush also is meant to distribute natural hair oils for a healthy shine.

 Though I prefer the Marylin Brush even to achieve volume and curl, a easier choice is a smaller diameter ceramic brush like the ceramic + ion thermal hairbrush by Olivia Garden. This synthetic bristle thermal brush features a vented ceramic barrel and ideal for faster styling while blow-drying. This unique brush also includes an ion charged material designed to help smooth and shine hair, distribute the heat from the hair dryer to speed up drying time, and reduce frizz and static.  The metal heats up like a curling iron, which leads to easy control over styling and are ideal for creating curls and body in straight hair.

As you can see, the right round brush can really determine your styles end result. So what brush are you going to get to create that perfect blowout???

For more information on the Marylin Boar Brush go to www.marilynbrush.com

For more information on the Olivia Garden Ceramic Brush visit www.oliviagarden.com

 www.sheenarush.com