Going Gray Gracefully For The Current Hair Coloring Client

First of all I don't always recommend you stop covering your gray hair for it can make you appear older, frumpy, dated and because of the ashy tone, it can make your skin appear dull and sallow. Some women embracing the gray hair, look amazing...such as Meryl Streep's character, with her silvery locks in Devil Wears Prada. I think this great silvery-gray color could look great on a lot of women if you coupled it with a flattering cut and fashionable clothing. If your the type that never considers fashion or hates to style your hair...then this look is not for you.

Since there is no hair color product on the market that will produce a true gray or white color, you simply have to let your gray grow out. For the client who has colored hair and gray roots, here are some options you have to help make the grow out process a lot more subtle and easier

1. Full highlights- Light blonde hair has very little contrast with gray hair. A full highlight each visit will be necessary until you remove all the previously colored hair....making you very blonde. A light ash toner will be necessary to counteract the yellow raw color that bleached hair achieves. The toner is light enough not to darken the hair but make the hair appear more gray or white than blonde. if your natural hair color is more salt and pepper...this can be achieved by low-lighting and highlighting the hair. A fine weave of low-lights the same color as the "pepper" in the hair and the remaining hair bleached. Then the now bleached blonde hair would be toned to give the appearance that it was gray or white. This is a process that takes a bit of time, money, and more then one visit may be required to receive the full desired results. Most find this option appealing because the end result does appear gray and makes them feel like they accomplished much of their goal even after the first visit.

2. Demi-permanent Color - The other option is much more budget friendly and probable the best option for extremely short haired clients who will cut the ends off soon anyway. Instead of getting rid of the previously colored hair and adding extra damage by bleaching and removing the color....we leave this hair alone and put the focus on the gray roots. When using a demi-permanent hair color which is deposit only hair color, it can only cover gray to about 50%. Meaning some your hair will take the color and some won't, allowing some gray to continue to shine through. When this type of hair color is deposited on gray course hair...it will also fade and leave you with little or no demarcation line. I guess you can say this works because it's not solid color like you have on the ends but not as bright white as your natural...so it is a great transition color. The demi-color would be applied to the roots only each visit and continued till the old, solid, previously colored hair has been cut off. After that phase you will be left with hair that has a salt and pepper look because of the 50% coverage of this demi-permanent product. Once your have reached this point you can also discontinue coloring your hair because the demi will fade anyway and the demarcation line will not be noticeable. This is a great option for those who have natural salt and pepper hair because your hair is like this already and you may be able to stop the process sooner.

I hope this helps and Good Luck!

Make Your Hair color Last

As The days become longer and more of us start to spend our time outdoor...It is extremely important to take care of the color you spent your money on. Here is what one of my favorite Hair Colorists, Rita Hazan has to say about making your beautiful hair color last.

For your hair color to last as long as possible, your hair needs to be healthy.  That is the only way your color will stay vibrant.  Conditioning treatments are the best way to keep your hair in good health.  You can get a professional treatment at the salon and then ask your colorist to recommend a treatment for your specific hair type and texture to use at home.  The lighter your hair is, the more frequently you should use your treatments each week.  For blondes, two times a week is more than enough. You can sleep with the treatment in, and then shampoo it out in the morning.  I don’t suggest using olive oil or homemade treatments.  I think it is best to take advantage of all of the technology out there and use the more advanced treatments that are available to us.  There are also great oils on the market that contain ingredients tailored to treat specific hair color issues and problems.  If you feel like your color is looking dull, you can also buy a  shine spray or serum.  These types of products will make your hair look shiny and help the color to appear more bright and alive.
I also believe that the shampoo and conditioner you use can make or break your color.  Some products work better than others on colored hair, so always use shampoo and conditioner made specifically for color treated hair.  If your hair seems to be fading, the first thing you should do is change your shampoo and conditioner.  A lot of times, the products you’ve been using end up being the problem.  Try different shampoos and conditioners until you find what works best for you.  Just don’t buy what is on “sale,” because you spend a lot of time and money on your color, so it is important to use the proper formulas to care for your hair. There is only so much your colorist can do to help you.  You must do your part and use the right products to make your color last.

by Rita Hazan

I also want to point out that if you plan on spending time outdoors in the pools or sun...I would recommend protecting those strands with Micro-Voile Protecteur from Kerastase. This treatment leaves a light, silky finish and acts as sunscreen for the sun-exposed hair.

Another great way to keep your hair color fresh and vibrant is to use color support shampoo and conditioners. These products contain hints of color pigments to counteract tonal shifts and fading that may occur with hair color over time. The Bumble and Bumble line was made to preserve the work of colorists. This low pH, extra-mild formula avoids stripping, neutralizes oxidation, smooths the cuticle & subtly enhances color.

Buzz Worthy Product Fave

Buzz Worthy Product Fave: Grooming Creme

One product that is a huge favorite of mine is Bumble and Bumble Grooming Creme. I love this product because it is easy to use and has countless ways you can use it,  giving a lot of bang for your buck. Use this product on damp hair for the beach waves, or give a perfect blow out a more natural, lived in style. If your wearing your hair straight, with your fingertips, piece out the ends of your hair to create more natural separation and give it more edge. This versatile product smooths hair, holds down flyaways, and great for giving  guys with that not so perfect, lived in texture. 

www.sheenarush.com
www.bumbleandbumble.com